|
| |
Volume 1, Number 3 -
Fall 2004
by Jayne Schaefer, Vice President
Our goal at AccuPro
Inspection Services is to inform and educate, so that as homeowners you can make
as wise decisions as possible and enjoy the quality of life you deserve. We
include articles from professionals in related industries to supplement our
generalist knowledge.
I was personally touched by
the article on formaldehyde in this issue. As an adolescent, I spent a great
deal of time in our new “vacation” mobile home. Whenever I was in that mobile
home, I smelled the strong chemical smell of formaldehyde, my eyes burned
terribly and I had bad headaches. A few years later my allergies developed.
The sinus problems developed later. I have always blamed it (though never
proven it) on the formaldehyde.
Now, many years later, my
father has been diagnosed with Esophageal Cancer — though he doesn’t smoke or
drink. I can’t help but wonder if that, too, might be due to the high levels
of formaldehyde exposure.
Our intent is not to be alarmist in nature — life is too short to go around
being afraid of everything. However, we cannot know what we do not know. It is
only through education that we can intelligently determine if there is a
potentially detrimental situation, and what to do about it if there is.
(Back to Top)
by Rich Schaefer, Owner & Certified Inspector
Whether you are a homeowner, investor or property manager, neglecting a cement
(Spanish) tile roof can lead to thousands of dollars in avoidable expenses. In
the Phoenix area, roofing materials experience temperature swings of more than
100°, from below freezing to over 140°, yet the roof is often one of the most
overlooked components of the home. In this article we will review basic tile
roof installation and typical maintenance required to ensure the roof properly
seals the home from moisture intrusion.
There are many different types of roof tiles,
however, most roofs built in the last 20 years use cement tiles of different
shapes and colors. The original material used for tile was clay, which is very
brittle and cannot be walked on. Concrete tiles, on the other hand, can
normally be walked on for inspection, maintenance and repairs.
New roof problems are usually due to installation errors when the installer does
not follow the manufacturer’s specification. There are several elements
associated with proper roof construction: the basic concept is to use metal
flashings at all valleys and edges; cover with a waterproof membrane (i.e., tar
paper); and then protect the membrane from the harmful rays of the sun with
cement tiles. Therefore, it is not the tiles that keep the water from entering
the residence, but the waterproof membrane underneath. While it is common to
find defects during the construction phase of a new home, the focus of this
article is on long-term maintenance issues.
The two primary reasons a tile roof will leak over time are movement and/or
subsequent loss of UV protection from the sun. All buildings move to some
degree. This movement causes tiles to slip or fracture and ridges or flashings
to open and possibly leak. If tiles slip or the wind carries away pieces from a
fractured tile, the membrane becomes exposed to the sun, deteriorates, splits
and provides an entry point for moisture.
Preventative maintenance will catch these issues long before they do costly
damage. We recommend that every five years you have a licensed roofer inspect
the roof, repair any defects found and provide you with a minimum one to two
year guarantee on the entire roof. This can normally be done for a nominal fee
and, depending on the repairs needed, should only cost a few hundred dollars.
This relatively low cost preventative maintenance program can save you thousands
of dollars in the long run as water penetration from even a small roof leak can
create significant interior damage to the structure and contents, potentially
increasing insurance premiums and negatively affecting indoor air quality due to
mold growth within the residence.
Is Formaldehyde in Your
Home Making You Sick?
Contributed by Dr. Eric R. Hampton, Westhampton Healthcare, (480) 831-7970
Formaldehyde is a colorless, flammable, strong smelling gas. It is an
industrial chemical used to manufacture building materials and to produce many
household products. Formaldehyde is used in particleboard, plywood and
fiberboard and is also used in the manufacture of plastics, urea-formaldehyde
foam insulation and many resins used to make paper, carpets, fabrics, paint and
furniture.
Other potential sources of indoor formaldehyde include cigarette smoke and the
use of un-vented fuel burning appliances, such as gas stoves, wood burning
stoves and kerosene heaters. Exposure occurs primarily by inhaling formaldehyde
gas or vapor from the air or by absorbing it directly through the skin.
Evidence from numerous studies indicate that formaldehyde exposure causes
headaches, allergies, cough, dizziness, menstrual problems, sinus problems,
fatigue, joint and muscle pain, skin rashes, depression, asthma, inability to
think clearly and sleep disturbances. It has been classified by the
Environmental Protection Agency as a cancer causing agent.
What level of formaldehyde exposure in a residence is safe? There appears to be
no lower level that is safe for everyone, however, the lower the concentration
the better. The Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) permits
exposures up to an average of one part per million (ppm) per eight hour day,
five days per week on the job, with a requirement of medical surveillance for
employees exposed to concentrations greater than 0.5 ppm.
Unfortunately, OSHA standards are only designed to provide a relative measure of
protection to healthy workers in the workplace, age 18 to 65, for a standard 40
hour work week. Residential exposure may range from 14 to 24 hours a day, seven
days per week. And, people in residential environments not only include healthy
adults, but also the very young, the old and those with existing ailments.
In mobile homes, the United States Government allows for levels of 0.40 ppm,
while the Canadian Government has concluded that levels of 0.10 ppm and above
are not safe, and that the homeowner must act to reduce levels.
Maximum formaldehyde levels occur when the house is closed and the air
conditioning or heater is being used. New homes with new furnishings emit much
higher levels of formaldehyde than older homes with older furnishings. Total
concentrations will decrease over time but will depend upon the potency of the
source materials, their quantity relative to the air volume in the building and
environmental factors such as ventilation, temperature and relative humidity.
If you have an illness that doctors have not been able to explain or help, or
you tend to feel better when on vacation or away from your home, formaldehyde
levels in your home may be making you sick!
For information on common household products that contain formaldehyde, contact
the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commision at 4330 East-West Highway, Bethesda,
MD 20814-4408 or call (800) 638-2772.
Dr. Hampton specializes in Environmental, Nutritional and
Preventive Medicine. He is in private practice in Mesa, AZ.
Understanding Your Home Owner's Insurance Policy
Contributed by Dawn Farley, Flannery Agency (480) 705-9670
Making sure your home is adequately protected is critical, and
to do that you need to understand your Homeowners Insurance Policy. Here is a
short list of the items that your Homeowners Insurance Policy should contain.
-
Dwelling Protection:
estimated cost to rebuild your home should the home be a
total loss. Remember, your land cannot be replaced so this figure should only
represent the cost to replace the structure. Other
Structures
Protection
includes items such as swimming pools or tool sheds, structures not directly
attached to your home but are part residence.
-
Personal
Property Protection:
estimated cost
to replace all of your personal belongings. Coverage amounts vary for each
category ($2,500 for theft of jewelry, $1,000 per item). Make sure that if you
have a single item that is valued at more than the maximum amount to be paid
out by your insurance company, you insure it separately through
Scheduled Personal Property.
Also, you want to make sure that your Personal Property extends past just the
items in your home. For example, if you are traveling and a piece of jewelry
is stolen, you would have coverage for it through your Homeowners Insurance
Policy.
-
Family
Liability and Guest Medical Protection: if
a guest at your home is injured and your are found liable for the injury, your
Homeowners Insurance Policy should pay for the medical attention they require
(i.e. your dog bit someone).
Additional Protection
Consideration:
-
Additional Living Expenses: coverage to assist you
with living expenses while you are unable to live in your home due to a loss.
-
Identity Theft Protection: coverage to repair damage
done to you by identity theft.
-
Homeowners Policy will cover those assessments.
-
Temporary Repairs After A Loss: reimbursement for
monies you were required to put out in an effort to minimize the loss.
-
Debris Removal: coverage to assist in the cost
required to remove debris from the property.
Discounts to Look For:
For a complimentary insurance review, contact Dawn Farley
with the Flannery Agency (480) 705-9670 or
dawnfarley@allstate.com.
(Back to Top)
Contributed by Ernie Henson, Jr., Stormin' Normin Pest Control (480) 804-1114
Living in Arizona, we sometimes share our homes with unwelcome
guests like scorpions, spiders, ants, etc. One of the best ways to limit
intrusions by these pests is to deny them entry -- a procedure known as pest
proofing. Many pests seek refuge in homes and other buildings in response to
changes in weather, such as extended periods of rain or drought, or the onset of
cooler temperatures in autumn. Taking steps to block their entry before they
end up inside can greatly reduce the chances of future sightings. This is by
far the safest method in keeping insects and rodents, as well as chemicals, out
of your living environment.
Outlined below are six useful tips for pest proofing one's
home. Steps one through three will also conserve energy and increase the
comfort level during summer and winter. Equipment and materials mentioned can
be purchased at most home improvement or hardware stores.
-
Install door sweeps or
thresholds at the base of all exterior entry doors. While lying on the floor,
check for light filtering under doors. Gaps of 1/16 inch or less will permit
entry of insects and spiders; 1/4 inch-wide gaps (the diameter of a pencil)
are large enough for entry of mice; 1/2 inch gaps are adequate for rats. Pay
particular attention to the bottom corners, as this is often where rodents and
insects enter.
-
Apply caulk along the bottom outside edge and sides of
door thresholds to exclude ants and other small insects. Garage doors should
be fitted with a bottom seal made of rubber. Gaps under sliding glass doors
can be sealed by lining the bottom track with 1/2 to 3/4 inch-wide foam
weather stripping.
-
Seal utility openings where pipes and wires enter the
foundation and siding, e.g., around outdoor faucets, receptacles, gas
meters, clothes dryer vents and telephone/cable TV wires. These are common
entry points for such pests as rodents, ants, spiders, and scorpions. Holes
can be plugged with caulk, cement, urethane expandable foam, steel wool,
copper mesh or other suitable sealant. On the interior, a foam insulator can
be installed behind electrical/switch outlet covers
-
Caulk cracks around windows, doors, fascia boards,
etc. Use a good quality silicone or acrylic latex caulk. Although somewhat
less flexible than pure silicone, latex-type caulks clean up easily with water
and are paintable. Caulks that dry clear are often easier to use than
pigmented caulks since they don't show mistakes as easily.
-
Prior to sealing, cracks should be cleaned and any
peeling caulk removed to aid adhesion. For a professional look, smooth the
bead of caulk after application with a damp rag or a moistened finger.
-
Repair gaps and tears in window and door screens.
Doing so will help reduce entry of flies, gnats, mosquitoes and other flying
insects.
-
Install 1/4-inch wire mesh (hardware cloth) over attic,
roof, and crawl space vents in order to prevent entry of birds, bats, rodents
and other wildlife. Be sure to wear gloves when cutting and installing
hardware cloth, as the wire edges are razor sharp. Installing screens inside
the cover of your bathroom vents will prevent entry of insects via the roof.
-
Consider applying an exterior treatment with
insecticides. While sealing is the more permanent way to exclude pests
originating from outdoors, comprehensive pest proofing is labor intensive and
sometimes impractical. For homeowners requiring an alternative, pest proofing
can be supplemented by an exterior treatment with an insecticide.
If the above is more of an undertaking
then you feel up to, call a professional. Ask questions like: How many years
of experience do you have? Is your company licensed through the Arizona
Structural Pest Control Commission? Is a home seal necessary? What
alternatives does your company offer? No matter which route you choose to take,
you will be sure to live more comfortably in a pest-proofed environment.
(Back to Top)
Inclusion of articles in this
newsletter does not constitute endorsement of products or services.
|
